Neighborhood Watch: Sanjo-kai Shotengai Shopping Arcade
Sanjo-kai Shotengai Shopping Arcade, also known as Sanjo-kai, is a shopping strip that runs just under one kilometer between Senbon Street and Horikawa Street. Almost purely consisting of mom and pop shops, it is an area that supports the daily lives of Central Kyoto locals.
Given that there are nearly 180 shops closely gathered in Sanjo-kai, a first-time visitor would not even know where to start (rightfully so; 180 is a lot). KABIN has your back. Today, we will be providing you with a quick overview of a few of our favorite places to eat, drink and snack.
First on our list is Kafu! Kafu is an Okinawan-style izakaya and noodle house. “Kafu” translates to “happiness” or “good news” in Okinawa dialect, and they deliver that in the form of soba noodles topped with juicy stewed pork with a perfectly balanced soup base, Lu Rou Fan (braised pork belly over rice), shikuwasa (Okinawa citrus fruit) beer and a wide variety of famous Okinawa staples.
Most importantly, the restaurant itself embodies the essence of Okinawa, with its easy-going atmosphere and its inviting baby blue painted storefront. Located right next to the west entrance of Sanjo-kai, it serves as the warmest welcoming party to the area.
“Sukima” literally means “crevice” in Japanese, and there is no word more suitable to describe this restaurant hidden in the cuts of Central Kyoto. To start, it is located in a residential area just outside of the shopping arcade, and it is difficult to find without using a navigation app, as it is literally a house reformed into a cozy little curry restaurant, with only a small inconspicuous sign placed on the ground in front of the entrance to signify that it is a business establishment. Furthermore, it is somewhat of an elusive shop, opening at very specific hours during a select few days out of each month (check Instagram account for details).
Walk into Sukima, and you will be greeted by the couple holding down the restaurant and the subtle decoration—such as the tasteful selection of books at the entrance, potted plants at the windowsill, and little trinkets from various regions across the globe—that complement its at-home atmosphere.
But what’s the curry like? The folks at Sukima are students of the game. Their tried-and-true and always available chicken curry hits you with a wonderful combination of spices, but they change up the rest of their menu with the season. Chicken Tikka Blend. Summer Keema Memory. Roast Pork Curry. Not to mention the seasonal vegetables and sides, chai and lassi. The couple running the shop make everything to order, preparing each meal while paying close attention to every minute detail of the dish in front of them.
Make your way toward the east entrance of Sanjo-kai, and you will eventually find Brulee, a dessert shop famous for their one and only item: Creme. Brulee. Donuts.
Yes, you read that correctly.
Brulee has created the ultimate dessert. From the crispy exterior of the donut to the warm and soft bread beneath it, the custard that fills the donut hole and the crisp layer of caramelized sugar on the top, it’s nothing short of perfect. It’s not just the magical combination of textures and flavors that captivate those who get their hands on the Creme Brulee Donut; the clerks caramelize the sugar in front of you, making sure that you know that it was made specifically for the person who ordered it.
We dare say that there is no need for a map to find this lovely establishment. The sweet aroma of the bread and custard that complete this one-of-a-kind delicacy can be sensed from stores away.
Though Kyoto is a landlocked city, nobody can say that it lacks options for fresh seafood. At Sanjo-kai, our go-to for sashimi is Amitatsu, a seafood-themed izakaya. The selection here is expansive, ranging from fresh sea urchin that melts in your mouth to seared bonito tuna topped with fresh garlic and green onion, fried octopus karaage and even blowfish. If you’re looking for the full seafood izakaya experience, we advise you to supplement your meal with a glass of beer or their deep menu of Japanese sake from numerous regions throughout Japan.
From the makeshift tables constructed from plastic crates to the expansive menu of seafood that changes with the seasons, walking into Amitatsu is reminiscent of coastal fish markets and will make you forget that Kyoto City has no beaches or immediate connection to the sea.
Sanjo-kai is nonchalant and a breath of fresh air for those looking to relax and enjoy a multitude of cuisines within a short distance from each other. Though it stretches less than one kilometer, we guarantee that you will leave the shopping strip with a full stomach and a smile on your face that says “I need to do this more often.” Just make sure you tell them KABIN sent you!
